Brief history of Route 66

Route 66 was established with the intention of connecting the east with the west. It is often said that it joins the two coasts, but that’s not strictly true, because although one end does pass through the Californian village of Santa Monica on the Pacific Ocean, the other passes through the city of Chicago (Illinois), beside the vast Lake Michigan. And it lies 1,500 km away from the Atlantic coast.

Also known as “The Main Street of America” or “The Mother Road”, among other names, Route 66 became part of the United States Numbered Highway System in 1926. However, it was not signposted until the following year and its surface wasn’t completed until 1938, so many of its sections were initially just dirt and gravel.

Over the course of its almost 100-year history, its layout has been altered several times. In addition, in the 1950s, most of the route became secondary as highways were built, and it became less traveled as a result. So much so, in fact, that in 1985 it was officially removed from the United States Numbered Highway System.

However, although today it is no longer possible to travel the original Route 66 uninterrupted (only around 80% has been preserved), some sections have been kept the way they were many years ago, taking us back to what life was like in the US in the middle of the last century. That’s why tourism there has been growing exponentially recently, and some of its sections have been declared “Historic Route 66”.

Although tourists can travel Route 66 in both directions, it is most common to travel it from east to west, i.e., from Chicago to Los Angeles. This route passes through eight of the 50 states that make up the US. In the order they are found, they are: Illinois, Missouri, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, and California. However, you could actually say there are nine, as many travelers deviate from the route and pass through Las Vegas, in the state of Nevada, before entering California.

Where does Route 66 start and end?

Officially, Route 66 begins in Chicago, at the Jackson Boulevard and Michigan Avenue intersection, and ends at the Santa Monica Pier, very close to Los Angeles. If done in its entirety it’s easy to cover more than 4,000 km, and if attempted in one go, it is advisable to spend a minimum of 14 days, averaging around 300 km a day. Of course, the route can take many forms depending on different factors, including taking in all the tourist spots. It is true that it can be divided into two or more sections and done more leisurely, taking even longer breaks at landmarks. Similarly, you can do only part of the route, and not necessarily start in Illinois and end in California. It is important to remember that the maximum speed limit is 55 miles per hour (just under 90 km/h) and on some stretches even reduced to 35 mph, so it is advisable to take your time, keeping in mind how strict some US law enforcement officers can be on this issue.

How to do Route 66?

Different companies specialize in renting vehicles to travel along Route 66 in one direction, without having to drop off the vehicle at the same place. There are many different types of vehicles to rent. The route can be done by bike, car, or motorhome; and choosing a vehicle “made in the USA” makes it even more authentic, allowing you to get the most from the experience and culture.

How to do route 66 on bike?

The average trip price for two people, for example, on a Harley-Davidson Touring bike, for 14 days is around 4,000 euros per person, including a double room, insurance, and roadside assistance. If it’s for two people and two motorcycles, and also a double room, the price comes to 5,250 euros per person. It should be noted that gas and meals are not included in these prices.

Other ways to do it: by car or bus

Meanwhile, if we prefer to do it in a Ford Mustang car and book our own accommodation and extras, the price of renting the car only comes to around 2,000 euros for two weeks.

Another more economical way is to take a Greyhound bus, a well-known interstate company whose original motto was “A lot more travel for a lot less money”. You can travel for 16 days with a double room, including breakfast, for around 2,000 euros per person.

In the summer months, from July to September, is the best time to travel Route 66. Although it can get hot at times, the days are longer and there is less chance of rain.

What are the most symbolic places to visit along Route 66?

Across the nearly 4,000 km of Route 66 there are many must-see tourist hotspots and towns. Obviously, it depends on where you stay, but there are some very famous places along the way, below are just a few:

Hall of Fame (Illinois)

In the city of Pontiac, before leaving Illinois, less than 200 km from the starting point in Chicago, is the Hall of Fame Museum. It houses thousands of historical memorabilia from the glory days of the “Mother Road”. The large mural that decorates one of its exterior walls is one of the most photographed monuments along Route 66. Thanks to all the images and photos, you can learn what life was like when Route 66 was the most important highway in the United States.

 

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Una publicación compartida de Amandine (@yeahamande)

Saint Louis and the Gateway Arch (Missouri)

The city of Saint Louis is usually the first or second stop after setting off from Chicago. Located on both sides of the Mississippi River, it brings together culture, history, music, and sports. During your visit, you can watch a Saint Louis Cardinals baseball game, walk or bike through Forest Park, or visit the iconic Gateway Arch. You can scale the enormous arch to its highest point at 192 meters, where you can get a panoramic view of the city.

 

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Meramec Caverns (Missouri)

The Meramec Caverns are another unmissable hotpspot on Route 66. A collection of over 6,000 caves hidden inside an extension of more than 40 km², and according to objects discovered inside, they have been confirmed to be inhabited by different pre-Columbian cultures. They were also used by the Union forces during the Civil War (1861–1865), and even served as a refuge for the famous gunman Jesse James and his gang after the war. These beautiful caves were formed from the erosion of limestone deposits over millions of years.

 

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Ed Galloway’s Totem Pole Park (Oklahoma)

To get there, you have to make a detour of around 6 km. At this historic site, you can admire 11 totem poles made by sculptor, Ed Galloway, between 1937 and 1948. They are an example of Oklahoma folk art and include figures of birds and Native American men. They are all made of concrete and one of them holds the record for being the tallest in the world. Twenty eight tons of cement, six tons of steel, and another 100 tons of stone and sand were used to build them. Using this material, Galloway managed to build the giant totem pole to almost 28-meters high.

 

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Blue Whale of Catoosa (Oklahoma)

Another peculiar attraction on the route is the Blue Whale of Catoosa, a large “sculpture” made in 1972 on the shore of a pond beside the road. The landmark is surrounded by trees, and there is a well-equipped picnic area. It is also possible to take a dip and cool off from the summer heat here.

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Cadillac Ranch (Texas)

Just 15 minutes by road from the Texan town of Amarillo is one of the most emblematic and unique landmarks on Route 66. It is known as Cadillac Ranch, located in the Texan desert. It is a public art installation and sculpture composed of 10 half-buried Cadillacs painted with graffiti. The cars are lined up, with the front end buried and the back end pointing towards the sky. They really do attract a lot of attention. Visitors are also encouraged to freely use spray paint to decorate the cars.

 

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Santa Fe (New Mexico)

The state capital of New Mexico is a city worth visiting. Founded in 1610 as a Spanish colony, it is famous for its architecture and panoramic views of the Sangre de Cristo mountains. The Spanish influence can be seen in its large plaza in the center of the city and in the winding streets of its historic district. Its various adobe buildings also show signs of its history.

 

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Sandia Peak Tramway (New Mexico)

Located just outside the city of Albuquerque, this 4.5-km long aerial tramway offers views of deep canyons and breathtaking scenery. Once at the top, the platform overlooks the Rio Grande Valley and the Land of Enchantment. The surrounding forest is stunning, as is the sunset from the top.

 

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The Painted Desert (Arizona)

The variety of colors of this northern Arizona desert gives it its name in this vast and beautiful area. It is dry and barren with rocks of multiple shades, from pinks and oranges to grays and purples. It is recommended to visit the Painted Desert in the evening to enjoy the sunset that makes the colors pop.

 

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Grand Canyon National Park (Arizona)

It is said that Arizona is the best preserved section of Route 66, if you consider what it was like in the mid-twentieth century. Once you hit the city of Flagstaff, you have to make a two-hour detour north to reach the Grand Canyon National Park. It is somewhat out of the way, but it is a natural wonder truly worth visiting. The Grand Canyon, formed by the Colorado River, reaches 29 km in width at some points and more than 1.5 km in depth. The scenery is truly breathtaking and draws more than six million annual visitors.

 

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Wigwam Motel (Arizona)

Located in the town of Holbrook, this well-known motel offers its guests the possibility of sleeping in individual tepee-shaped rooms. These were cone-shaped tents historically used by indigenous people of the United States. The motel was built in 1950 and is listed on the US National Register of Historic Places.

 

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Santa Monica (California)

The end of the route and an ideal place to relax and take in the Pacific Ocean from its impressive beach. There is the famous amusement park, Pacific Park, on the pier, along with the historic Looff Hippodrome’s merry-go-round. A visit to the city’s aquarium is also highly recommended or Muscle Beach, an open-air gym founded in 1930, where many scenes from movies have been filmed.

 

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On them, you can enjoy motorcycle sport riding in much greater safety than if you were on the road. As well as the number of fans, the pleasant climate in this country really helps sports facilities of this type work well. For this reason, Spain is the place many foreign riders choose to live and the destination for many others who come to train here in the winter as they cannot do so in their home countries because of bad weather.

This is why these months are the “high season” for Spanish tracks, especially if we are talking about those in the south.

The good thing in all this is that it is not necessary to be a professional to ride on a track at the controls of a motorcycle. All of them organize various riding courses and rides that whoever wants to can join, as long as they meet some requirements that we will explain below.

What were once known as “free sessions” almost do no longer exist. Nowadays, circuits outsource to organizers who take charge of looking after the people who want to ride and monitor them so that everything runs smoothly and the safety rules required for activities of this type are followed.

What do you need to be able to ride on a track?

The first thing is a motorcycle. Normally, you ride your own bike, although it is also possible to rent one. If you do, as well as paying between €300 and €500 a day for the rental, it will also be necessary to put down a deposit that can range from €1,000 to €2,000 or even more, depending on the model. Here, the “you break it, you pay” rule is followed, so that if you fall off or the bike breaks down due to misuse, the damage must be paid for out of the deposit. Generally, the cost of renting the bike includes gasoline and the wear on the tires.

If you are using your own bike, all you need to do is remove some items like rear-view mirrors, turn signals, rear foot pegs and passenger handle, kick stand, license plate, etc. As well as lessening the weight, they are not needed to ride on a track and if you fall off, the damage will definitely be less.

Adding crash pads can also help minimize damage in the event of an accident and to “complete the picture”, if your bike is a sports model, it’s also not a bad idea to keep in mind some accessories, like replacing the fairing and tail cowl with fiberglass ones from suppliers. These are obviously less expensive than the original “plastic” ones and can easily be repaired.

The tires on a motorcycle are always important, but if you are going to ride fast on a track, it’s even more essential that they are in good condition. It’s not worth risking it and there is no better time to try out some new tires than during a “visit” to a track. The ideal thing is for them to be sport tires but without exaggerating, as some users go for slicks and that can be counterproductive.

Track-ready sport bike tires have better grip but they require very high “operating” temperatures and to heat them up properly, you have to go fast and without slowing down. Using heaters before going out on the track can also help here, but then you have to consistently maintain a high speed so that the tires don’t cool down. So, to start riding on a track, it’s advisable to use “street” sport tires. If you don’t use heaters, you must take care on the first few bends and increase the pace little by little to let the tires reach the optimum temperature.

As for pressures, it is important to remember that they must be checked when cold and, on the track, to be sure to use lower pressures than those recommended by the manufacture for the road. It is always a good idea to get advice before going out on a track, because they vary depending on the kind of bike and the surface. If you start using a set of new tires for the course or ride, they very probably will remain in tip-top condition for the entire day on the track, unless you are extremely fast.

In approximate figures, on longer tracks, you can do around 10 or 12 laps per session, and even one or two more if you are very fast, so that by the end of the day you could total between 60 and 80 laps on a bike around the track. Although it is a good idea to think ahead about the tires, it must also be said that the majority of organizers of courses and rides tend to offer a tire service on the track, to replace them on the spot if necessary.

Also, the suspension, brakes, and chain must be properly checked beforehand. If it is your first time, most probably the “street” adjustment of your bike’s suspension will be too “soft” for the track, so you must “tighten” it as you gain confidence and increase the speed.

The same thing goes for the brakes as for the tires, and riding on a track can be a good time to try out new pads and change the brake fluid. Checking the condition of the chain and its tension, and greasing it, are also absolutely necessary operations before venturing on a track.

How should you be equipped?

Until not long ago, it was mandatory that the equipment to ride on a track included a leather race suit, preferably a one-piece, with no zipper between the pants and the jacket. Today, this is still advisable, but it is also true that for beginners’ courses they allow other materials with the proper European approval rating.

Anyway, it is an established fact that a leather “sport” one-piece is the safest solution for riding on an asphalt track, and it must have knee sliders to prevent the leather from wearing out due to rubbing on the asphalt when leaning into bends. Elbow sliders will not be needed at first but may be if you reach the advanced level as a rider. In addition, wearing thin technical underwear under the suit will also be a good idea. As well as being easier to put on and take off, it will prevent the inner lining from rubbing on the skin at points like the knees, elbows, shoulders, armpits, etc.

Wearing a one-piece helmet is another basic requirement. If it is top-of-the-range, that’s better still, as it is very probable that on the track you will reach high speeds on numerous occasions. The gloves are also very important; like the suit, they should preferably be leather. The hands are the parts of the body most likely to be injured if you fall, so it is important that they are very well protected. Also, with leather sports gloves, you have a better grip and will feel more in touch with your bike.

In addition to a suit, helmet, and gloves, boots are the fourth vital accessory for your equipment. The ideal ones are so-called mid-calf boots, which go well with the suit. It is usual for the cuffs of the suit to be tucked into the boots, although some riders prefer the opposite, and the boots go under the suit legs. In both cases, both the boots and the suit have different closures and are specifically made for each type of use.

Wearing a a back protector is also mandatory if you are going to ride a motorcycle on a track. It is essential to protect your back properly. If you also add an airbag, the protection for your torso will be excellent. In top-class competitions, the use of an airbag is mandatory, although for short courses or rides on the track there is still no regulation obliging you to have one as part of your equipment.

Another very important aspect when going to ride on a track is accident insurance. On the track, the motorcycle’s insurance does not count and, if you fall and injure yourself, Social Security will also not be responsible for the expenses. So, it is really important to pay attention to this item. There are companies that specialize in this type of insurance and for the €25 or so that a one-day insurance policy costs, it’s not worth risking it.

What is a day on the track normally like?

When you sign up for a short course or a ride on a track, the first thing to be aware of is your level of riding skill and to inform the organizers of the event. Unless you have a high spending power and rent it exclusively for yourself, which is hardly likely, you must be well aware that the track will not only be for your use and that you will have to share it with others. Therefore, normally, groups are formed depending on the riders’ skill level, and these tend to be “beginner”, “intermediate”, and “advanced” or “competition”.

They tend to try not to have riders at different levels on the track at the same time so that they don’t bother each other and to reduce the risks. Groups may also be formed depending on the type of motorcycle, although there are riders with a trail bike who are capable of going very fast and others with a super sports bike who ride slowly.

Even if you ride well and have experience, if you have never been on a track, you should start in a “beginner’s” group and, if you think it’s appropriate, go up by levels as the day goes by. In one day at the track, there is time for about six 20-minute sessions, and even seven when the days are longer. You tend to go out onto the track once an hour, so between sessions you will have about a 40-minute rest period. It also isn’t mandatory to do complete laps. Everyone can enter the line of pit boxes and stop when they deem it appropriate, either to make an adjustment to the bike or simply to take a break.

On the riding courses, they tend to have sessions with an instructor and free ones. Normally, the first ones take place in the morning and the second ones in the afternoon, when the students have gained experience and have learned the layout of the track.

In the case of rides, they are all free sessions, although they are also monitored, both by rider level and by time on the track. Although it is true that on some tracks you can ask for advice from an instructor, this service tends to be paid for separately. Obviously, the cost of a ride tends to be less than for a short course.

How much does it cost for a day on a track? 

There is no set price. It depends on the track, whether it is low or high season, the number of participants, if it is a business day or public holiday, etc. The most affordable are the circuits that don’t have world-class events on their calendar, such as Cartagena, Almería, Andalucía, Albacete (currently closed), Navarra, Monteblanco, and Calafat, where courses cost between €120 and €150.

Next, here are some of the tracks that do hold international races or are closer to big cities, such as Circuito de Jerez Ángel Nieto, MotorLand Aragón, the Circuit de la Comunitat Valenciana, and Jarama (just a few kilometers outside of Madrid), where a short course costs between €160 and €200 euros. Lastly, if you put all these factors together, plus the fact that it is near the city with the most motorcycles in Spain, the high demand means that a one-day riding course on the Circuit de Barcelona – Catalunya can cost up to €250 on a public holiday.

As you have seen, “free” rides are less expensive and, depending on the track, the prices come down to around €30 to €50 as compared to courses. These prices are merely a guide, because there are people who prefer to pay more and share the track with fewer users, but it is clear that there is a good supply from which you can choose when it comes to riding a motorcycle on a track.

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Before setting off, the first thing to check on a motorcycle is that the controls and rearview mirrors are placed correctly. To avoid excessive fatigue in the rider’s hands, which may even fall asleep, the ends of the handlebar levers should be positioned on the same line as the rider’s forearms once their hands are gripping the handlebar grips with wrists straight.

The correct placement of these levers will also depend on the type of motorcycle. On a touring bike, they should be placed higher than on a sport bike. If it is a trail bike, it should also be taken into account if it is going to be used off-road for a long time and, therefore, if it is going to be ridden standing up. In this case they will have to be set lower than would be normal for on-road use. In any case, repositioning the levers is a simple operation in which you do not need to spend more than a couple of minutes. So it isn’t excessive for every motorcycle user to know how to do it and so they can do it when the moment requires it.

For the rearview mirrors, it is important that each of their arms be placed perpendicular to the direction of travel. If they are more closed or more open, the field of vision may be reduced by being obstructed by the driver’s shoulders and/or arms.

Equally important is for the shift and rear brake levers to be at the correct height. If the gearshift lever is set higher or lower than what may be considered correct, it will make shifting much more difficult and cause the driver’s left leg to tire unnecessarily by having to move it more than necessary when shifting up and down gears. The same applies to the brake lever. In addition, not having the controls or rear-view mirrors correctly positioned could cause errors while driving and, therefore, affect safety.

Once the controls are properly positioned, when setting off, the rider must centered on the motorcycle, i.e. their weight must be properly distributed between the right and left sides. It is also important for the upper and lower limbs to be placed in a symmetrical position between them. While turning the throttle or using the gear shift can cause differences at times, you should always try to maintain balance between the arms and legs on one side and the other. The movements must always be balanced, without no abrupt movements that may cause oscillations that affect the correct trajectory of the bike.

Distributing the rider’s weight is important

Starting from the bottom up, the feet should be placed on the footrests in a natural position, always close to the ends of the shift and rear brake levers. If the feet are placed backward or open on the footpegs, each time the levers must be operated, apart from taking more time, they will have to move more than necessary, which over prolonged use can lead to fatigue or pain. Logically, how you use your feet also changes a lot depending on the type of riding: whether it is a lively and sporty ride or a relaxed, touring ride.

For sporty riding, the rider’s weight should be taken advantage of and applied more on the footpeg closest to the inside of each turn. This means that, on turns to the right, more weight will rest on the footpeg on that side, and on turns to the left, the opposite. In this way, the changes in footpeg support will also help change the bike’s direction and its movements between curves.

Your knees should bend the amount needed by each bike and placed very close to the bike, but without being fully supported so that vibrations or heat from the engine do not affect the rider. If they are placed more open than they should be, the air from riding can force them open even more, which could cause fatigue on trips or prolonged use.

Of course, the rider should be seated on the seat, but some of their weight should also be supported by their legs. If all your weight is on the seat, the support area is likely to be affected more than necessary for long journeys. Also, if all the weight is loaded on the seat, in sport riding the center of gravity of the bike-rider combination can be set back and raised more than may be considered adequate, which affects the overall bike handling and rear tire grip when accelerating out of corners. Hence the importance of having part of the rider’s weight on the footpegs through the feet.

The back bent forward and the arms bent

With regard to the correct position of the rider’s back, although this will depend greatly on the type of motorcycle, it is best to be bent forward. First to seek greater protection and not be battered as much by the wind and also so that the bumps do not have an excessive impact on the vertebrae when the spine is very stiff. Another thing that should not be done is to slouch backwards, which seems to be popular.

The degree to which the back is curved forward also depends a lot on the position of the rider’s arms. Your arms should be bent with the elbows directly slightly upwards. They should never be straight or too stiff, as this makes it difficult to make quick movements such as those that needed on the handlebar grips in the event of unforeseen circumstances. Tensing them too much can also result in fatigue for prolonged use.

Your neck should also be angled slightly forward to reduce the force against the wind. You must aim to be balanced and, depending on the speed, take advantage of the helmet aerodynamics and orientation so that the strength required by the neck is as litlle as possible.

Moving your body and shifting weights 

It is clear that the rider’s body movements are very important when riding a motorbike. Hence, movements must be made on the bike and weight must be shifted between corners. In addition to moving on the seat, when negotiating a right-hand corner, the rider’s left shoulder and arm should move towards the tank of the motorbike. And in the case of a left-hand corner, it is the shoulder and arm on the other side that should be closer to the longitudinal axis of the vehicle.

With regard to the rider being further forward or further back on the seat, this will depend largely on the speed. In urban use or low speed manoeuvres it is better for the rider to be close to the rear of the tank. However, as speed increases, it is better to move back on the seat, and even look for the rear stop on acceleration. On long journeys, it is also a good idea to use the rear part of the seat, which is generally wider and more cushioned, for greater riding comfort.

If the seat is height-adjustable, it is advisable to adjust it to a low position for sporty driving to facilitate weight shifts and movements between bends for the driver. For long journeys on fast roads, placing the seat in a raised position will benefit comfort as the driver’s legs are less bent.

Pay attention to all these tips, because if you dedicate time and money to your passion for motorbikes, you will gain in safety and comfort from the moment you get on your bike

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For this reason, brands are working hard to improve their different products and to ensure maximum safety and protection, in part also conditioned by increasingly stringent laws that entail a series of very severe endurance tests that must be passed. Choosing the right footwear for motorcycling is just as important as wearing a helmet, jacket, gloves, and other protective gear. In addition, ensuring proper maintenance of all these elements is as necessary as maintaining our bikes.

Scratches and fractures are the most frequent injuries in motorcycle falls, the legs being the most affected body part according to statistics. We also know that the city is where most accidents occur, so if we use a motorcycle every day, we should never let our guard down and it is advisable to always be well equipped. In addition, foot and leg injuries not only occur when riding. They can also be caused by when parking or in falls while stationary, so the use of specific riding boots is always advisable. They can prevent injuries or, at least, reduce their severity.

For this reason, there are different types of boots on the market. These should be chosen according to the use and type of motorcycle we use. It is not the same to ride a low displacement scooter in the city, a dirt bike on a dirt track, a high displacement scooter on the road, etc. For each occasion, there are specific motorcycling boots and it is important to make the right choice, so we are going to try to help you.

Urban boots

When riding around town on a motorcycle, it is necessary to use light and comfortable footwear, bearing in mind that we are likely to walk in them when leaving our bike parked, and that its use may be prolonged. Thinking about the hottest days of summer, the footwear shouldn’t be too hot. Therefore, it is best to use boots that cover and protect the ankles, but do not go too high up the leg. There are leather boots on the market with laces similar to those used in motor racing, or casual boots that resemble basketball shoes. We can also find very smooth models and without laces, which go unnoticed while going about our day not riding our motorcycle.

Touring bike boots

For traveling and road routes, you should wear medium-calf leather boots that provide good protection for your ankles and shins. They must be comfortable, bearing in mind that we may them for many hours and that we may be walking when we get off our motorcycle. Likewise, they must have some kind of membrane that makes them waterproof and keep our feet dry in case we ride in the rain. On the outside, they are should be robust and have a simple design, except for protection for the gearshift on the left foot boots. In addition, they are should be black to better camouflage stains caused by grease or other thing that can be found on the asphalt. There are also some that are more suitable for colder days and others that are less warm, more appropriate for the summer season. In general, they have zippers on the sides and Velcro fasteners on the upper part to adjust properly to our calves.

Sports bike boots

Designed for riding sports bikes, both on the road and on the circuit. They are usually of medium length and are also mostly made of leather, although they have different strategically placed protection on the outside. In addition, interchangeable sliders are included on the outer sides, next to the toecaps, in order to be more resistant to possible friction with the asphalt when leaning hard in the curves. In general, they are very rigid against lateral movements to offer high protection, and although they allow the ankles to move up and down to change gears and brake, they are not particularly suitable for walking in them once we get off the bike.

In addition, they usually have brightly colored leather to match the decoration of the motorcycle and/or the rider’s other equipment. The top-of-the-range ones may include an inner liner with rigid elements made of fiber to further increase protection against possible falls. Putting them on and taking them off takes time, because their fasteners are very secure so that the boots do not come off in high-speed falls. Some boots combine zippers with laces, Velcro, and ratchet straps.

Off-road bike boots

A few years ago, there were differences between motocross, enduro, and supermotard boots, but nowadays, the main manufacturers have managed to use the same formula for all three disciplines. Even so, there are still some old-fashioned models, with smooth soles in the case of motocross and supermotard, and with soles with a marked pattern in the case of enduro. However, the more modern design models use striped soles that provide the grip required when putting your feet on the ground in enduro, and the necessary sliding in motocross and supermotard when “resting” your feet on the curves. At the same time, the central part of the soles is interchangeable, as it is an area that is worn down more than the rest due to its friction with the footpegs (especially if we are talking about motocross).

In addition to being the highest (you could say they were full-leg boots), off-road bike boots are clearly the heaviest and most robust, and therefore, the ones that offer greater protection to the feet and lower legs. The diameter of their upper part may seem excessive, but once they are on, in addition to hugging your calves, they also leave room for the orthopedic knee pads used in the three disciplines mentioned. Normally, in addition to Velcro fasteners, they have four hooks for fastening. This type of boot is also used on dirt track bikes, although the boot of the left foot is fitted with a metal sole to better withstand the almost continuous friction with the ground. It is also true that some manufacturers have already developed a specific model of boots for this discipline, with the left boot having a replaceable sole.

Trail bike boots

Trail riding is a growing discipline and the manufacturers have been quick to develop specific boots for this class of motorcycles. They are a combination of touring boots and off-road boots. They are made of very thick leather and have two or three hooks for fastening depending on their height, as there are both low and high cut boots. However, although they provide good protection for off-road riding, they are not as robust and bulky as actual off-road boots, as they must also be comfortable for extended use on the road.

Trial bike boots

Trial boots are similar to the boots used for enduro, motocross, and supermotard, but their design is simpler, and their soles are thinner, as well as having a slightly lower shaft. For trial riders, the added weight is very important and when developing trial boots, the aim is to keep the weight as light as possible. They must offer the degree of protection and flexibility necessary for this discipline. When it comes to fastening, some models maintain the traditional hooks while others have opted for a boa-type fastening, accompanied by a Velcro strap on the upper part, this makes them considerably lighter.

Custom boots

These are the most traditionally designed boots, resembling what we know as off-road boots, such as those that used to be used for horseback riding. For this reason, some of them look very much like “street” boots and some of them have high heels. It is also not uncommon for them to include eye-catching buckles with ribbons and other decorative elements. There are also some whose design is inspired by military boots with the entire front part laced up. They are available in black or different shades of brown, and are not usually particularly high.

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Siempre hay margen para aprender y en los cursos de conducción se suelen formar distintos grupos en función de los distintos niveles: desde iniciación, hasta avanzado, pasando por medio e incluso competición. Están pensados para que aprendamos a conocer las capacidades de nuestra moto y cómo conducirla con seguridad. Es muy importante saber cuánto y cuándo debemos frenar, cómo hay que trazar las curvas, en qué momento hay que acelerar, cuál es la marcha que debemos llevar engranada en cada momento, cómo hay que utilizar nuestro cuerpo, etc. Por estos motivos, en los cursos de conducción de moto son tan importantes las clases prácticas, como las teóricas. En la forma de impartirlas y en los conocimientos que en ellas se enseñan radica en buena medida el éxito de un curso y el grado de satisfacción del cursillista una vez realizado.

También es de vital importancia que los alumnos disfruten de la experiencia sin nerviosismo y sin estrés, para que puedan concentrarse al máximo en el aprendizaje y en la conducción. Además, un curso de iniciación no debe ser solo deportivo, también debe enseñar a mejorar las maniobras más habituales que se hacen en el día a día y a advertir de cuáles son los distintitos peligros que pueden existir en las carreteras.

Cursos de conducción de moto en circuito

Los cursos de conducción más habituales son los que se llevan a cabo en circuitos de asfalto. Por lo general, en ellos se inscriben motoristas que quieren perfeccionar su conducción y conocer cuáles son las capacidades de sus monturas. Además, en estos cursos ya no predominan como antaño las motos deportivas y en la actualidad las naked han adquirido mucho peso. Tampoco es raro que en la lista de inscritos veamos cursillistas con motos de sport-turismo o de trail. Hoy en día la diversidad que existe en el mercado es muy amplia y ello queda reflejado en los cursos de conducción en circuito.

Al fin y al cabo, la mayoría de usuarios disfrutan de sus motos en carreteras de todo tipo y por este motivo es muy interesante que adquieran experiencia en circuitos de asfalto. En estos recintos cerrados los márgenes de seguridad son mucho más amplios y se pueden cometer errores sin que las consecuencias sean tan graves como pueden serlo en carreteras abiertas al tráfico y sin escapatorias en la mayoría de sus curvas.

Cursos de conducción de moto recomendados por la DGT

Incluso la propia Dirección General de Tráfico recomienda realizar cursos de conducción a los motoristas. Considera que en ellos se gana pericia, se evitan sustos y se mejora la reacción ante imprevistos. En definitiva, se ahorran accidentes, porque para los motoristas, la línea que separa un susto de un accidente es muy delgada, advirtiendo que en el 72 por ciento de los accidentes de motos se producen heridos, mientras que en los de coche esta cifra se rebaja al 11,5 por ciento. Otro dato interesante de la DGT es que solo en el 25 por ciento de los casos son los motoristas los causantes de un accidente con otro vehículo. De ahí la importancia de adquirir experiencia para tener la capacidad de anticipación necesaria ante las maniobras que puedan realizar otros conductores.

Amplia oferta de cursos de manejo de motos para todo tipo de motos

Además, la oferta de cursos de formación para montar en moto es realmente amplia. En España podemos encontrar cursos específicos para distintos tipos de moto  y también dirigidos a jóvenes que por edad todavía no pueden sacarse el carné. Así existen escuelas de motocross, de enduro, de trial, de dirt track, etc. También aquellas que te enseñan a hacer giros cerrados en muy poco espacio y que te incitan a tocar con la deslizadera de la rodilla en el asfalto.

Otros que cada vez están adquiriendo un mayor protagonismo son los cursos dirigidos a clientes de modelos trail y maxitrail. Estas motos cada vez tienen una mayor cuota de mercado y muchos de sus usuarios nunca han conducido fuera de la carretera. De ahí que se impartan en circuitos de tierra en los que cada cursillista aprende a conocer cómo se comporta su moto al frenar, al girar, o al subir y bajar distintas pendientes fuera del asfalto.

Las marcas de motos y las compañías aseguradoras, entre otras, son perfectas conocedoras de lo importante que es que sus clientes monten bien en moto. Por este motivo muchas organizan cursos para que aprendan a controlar una moto en distintas situaciones. Incluso hay marcas que aportan las motos y todo el equipamiento necesario para el conductor.

El caso de Honda

Un ejemplo de ello es el Honda Instituto de Seguridad, un espacio único de más de 20.000 metros cuadrados ubicado en las instalaciones de Honda Motor España en Santa Perpètua de la Mogoda (Barcelona). Con más de diez años de trayectoria, sus modernas y exclusivas instalaciones comprenden aulas, simuladores de conducción, taller y vestuarios, además de una explanada asfaltada de 8.000 m² y otra de tierra de 6.000 m² en las que se puede trabajar sobre distintas técnicas de conducción y sobre diferentes motos.

También cuenta con una pista deslizante para realizar ejercicios de frenada con sistema ABS. En el HIS se imparten cursos específicos para todos los niveles de pilotaje, tanto para moto como para scooter, e incluso para profesionales cuyo trabajo implica el pasar tiempo sobre una moto. Los costes de los distintos cursos son muy ajustados y la inscripción incluye la cesión de la moto con gasolina, así como coderas, rodilleras y peto para cada cursillista.

Por motivos sanitarios, en la actualidad cada uno debe llevar su casco y sus guantes. Está demostrado que los distintos cursos que se imparten en el Honda Instituto de Seguridad son un ejemplo a seguir.

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In the past, the official material from the previous season was usually recycled, sold, or leased to private teams. Many other times, the motorcycles that weren’t going to be used anymore became show models in motorcycle expos, which sometimes gave rise to a certain guile.

The most notable case was the one of a Honda RC166 unit, the six-cylinder 250cc with which Mike Haliwood was 250cc champion in 1966 and 1967. In February 1968, Honda announced its withdrawal from Grand Prix racing and offered Haliwood a substantial contract to also leave World Championship racing, while also offering him various units of his champion motorcycles to compete in international events, with which he earned significant profits. But in 1969, those prodigious machines ended up tossed aside. Or at least, that’s what they thought in Japan…

One model ended up with Honda Germany as a show bike for European motorcycle expos. Then, without anyone knowing very well how, that six-cylinder 250cc appeared in the 1969 German Grand Prix trainings in Hockenheim, driven by Gerhardt Heukerott, an unknown, independent German rider, who managed to persuade those responsible at Honda Germany to give him the bike.

The adventure ended badly because such a sophisticated motorcycle needed delicate maintenance and ended up suffering a malfunction that didn’t allow it to start the race. Afterwards it was lost track of, like so many motorcycles from the time. Some can be seen at the Twin Ring Motegi Honda Collection Hall; others have ended up in the hands of collectors.

Auctions and collections

Sometimes the most curious things would happen with racing motorcycles. A few months ago the Benelli 250/4 with which Kel Carruthers won the 250cc World Championship in 1969 was auctioned. The history of this motorcycle is a most bizarre one. This was the last season that that mechanical configuration was able to be used due to a change in regulations, therefore the destination of the motorcycle was the private collection of the Benellis.

However, when the brand was acquired by the De Tomaso Group in 1972, Marco Benelli, one of the children of Giuseppe Benelli, founder of the company, took out the engine from the motorcycle to use it in his own street bike… Unheard of. Subsequently, all the material, engine, and chassis, was recovered by Giancarlo Morbidelli and the motorcycle was restored in the Morbidelli Museum, but after its dismantling two years ago, it ended up auctioned at Bonhams, one of the most well-known auction houses in the world.

It was a habit of Ángel Nieto, sometimes by contract, to keep champion motorcycles. He always kept a unit of the motorcycles that he won with, creating a valuable collection. Even on one occasion, he convinced owner Commendatore Minarelli to let him keep one on the very podium after he became champion. “I knew that if I asked him at that moment, he would not be able to refuse me,” Nieto confessed on one occasion. And that was that. The 125cc Minarelli is one of the joys of our much-missed “12+1” collection.

Currently in MotoGP

There were also cases where after keeping some units for different uses, other models were destined for the scrapyard, although this practice is no longer used. These are not the times to throw anything away, and cost savings are just as important as good design. One must bear in mind that each rider has two units in MotoGP –not like in Moto2 and Moto3, where they only have one motorcycle due to budget issues –, and that on top of the riders that compete in the championship, all manufacturers have a test team that also has a variety of material and works with different units: last season’s bikes, current bikes, prototypes, etc.

For example, at Honda, one season’s bikes serve as a basis of evolution for the following season, and work is carried out on them. In the past, these motorcycles were used as material for the brand’s satellite team, but as of last season this isn’t the case because Honda is building identical units both for the official team as well as the satellite team. The motorcycles that are no longer used have different destinations: they are sent to Japan for different events or are delivered to sponsors, such as Repsol, whose main headquarters in Madrid boasts a luscious collection of champion motorcycles from the 500cc World Championship and MotoGP.

At Ducati, they make the most of a lot of material to prepare the following season’s bike. As we can see, the service life of a motorcycle can easily extend over two or even three seasons depending on the needs of the manufacturer and its commitments to its satellite teams.

But there comes a time when the motorcycles stop being used. What happens to them then? “It depends on the leasing contracts with independent teams,” Ducati says. “Some motorcycles are upgraded and are reused for the following season, others are sold to collectors, and one always ends up in the Ducati Museum.”

And when the service life of motorcycles reaches its end, what happens to those? “Some of them become test team motorcycles, others are destined for the dyno, and others become show bikes”, states Ken Kawauchi, technical manager of Suzuki in MotoGP. Ultimately, everything is made the most of.

At the end of 2018, KTM had an interesting initiative: sell two units of its RC 16, its MotoGP bike. It was the first time that a manufacturer put two genuine MotoGP motorcycles on public sale. In the past, Ducati had already made some of its bikes available to collectors, but KTM gave a new dimension to selling a racing bike in such a public and open way to anyone who could afford it. And not just any bike, none other than a MotoGP one. The offer also included a complete set of equipment signed by the rider (helmet, suit, gloves, and boots) and the chance to share a Grand Prix with the team in the same box. And all that for “only” 250,000 euros.

It is certainly a significant figure, but at least it is a first practical reference to measure the value of these unique and exclusive museum-worthy motorcycles, which would not deserve any less noble destination than this one.

The post Where MotoGP bikes end up when the season’s over appeared first on Box Repsol.